Sorbetto Top – Fitting Issues

June 7, 2011

I’ve been making good progress on the Sorbetto top, but have stumbled on some fitting issues.

I decided not to sew a toile as it’s such a simple pattern, and my measurements weren’t far off those for a size 6, so I just went with it – I think I got swept up in the excitement that I was actually finally sewing something!! I shouldn’t admit this, given that I used to make my living selling sewing patterns. But this is the first item of women’s clothing that I am sewing in an incredibly long time. About 5 years, in fact. And my experience before that is limited to simple, simple skirts. So, I guess what I am saying is, I need help! Please!!

This is the problem. The front fits fine: the bust darts a teensy weensy bit high, but not enough to warrant any changes. But the back is waaaaay too big. The first picture is just a normal side shot, but you couldn’t see it very clearly for some reason, so the second picture is an exagerated one where I pinched out the excess fabric so you could see it more clearly. The third picture is a shot from the back.

Side image - not too clear

The same side view with the excess fabric pinched out

View from the back

It looks to me like I have too much fabric in the upperĀ  / middle back. I recall once when I went for a bra fitting, I was told I had a very narrow back for my chest size – so it makes sense if this is the same problem. The question is, how to fix it?!

I have done my 30 minutes for today but I think tomorrow I will unpick the side seams and re-pin them, taking in more fabric from the back piece, and keeping the front piece seam allowance as is. The fit around the hips is perfect, so the amount taken in on the side will have to be tapered.

I have no idea if this will work or not, or if I need some kind of darts in the back? If anyone else has any good pieces of advice or recommendations I’d be really grateful! I’m sure I’ll get there. The good news is I love how easily the pattern has come together – can’t wait to get on to sewing the bias binding on.

{ 4 comments… read them below or add one }

Tabatha Tweedie June 9, 2011 at 12:49 pm

This is useful information for me as I was also going to make the Sorbetto top without making a muslin first – my reasoning being that it’s designed to be a loose fit anyway so fitting wouldn’t be an issue… but your blog has warned me that I may be wrong! I would try to take it in at the side seams like you have suggested but only in the mid back area where it’s too big. If that didn’t work then maybe darts would be the answer, or you could try sewing two ties into the side seams and having a tie fastening at the back to gather the excess fabric in? Let us know how it works out!

Reply

mumsy June 9, 2011 at 7:03 pm

I suspect it’s entirely my fault actually – being a weird shape!! I do have a very narrow back, and my hip is 1″ wider than the measurements for the size I made. I thought it wouldn’t matter because of the loose fit, but I think the top is just a little snug at the hip so it sits on the hip rather than falling round it, which encourages the pooling of the fabric on the back. I’d love to hear how you find the fit if you do go ahead and make it..

Anyway I got some good advice over on the CP forum and the Sewing Forum so am about to head to the sewing machine to make some changes. Will let you know how I go!

Reply

Nikki June 22, 2011 at 10:28 am

i just had to leave a comment as I have the same issues with my last two tops (I’ve only tried 3 patterns so far) and I was about to have a go at the Sorbetto. It’s very hard to know what causes this pooling of fabric as it seems like it can be one of any number of fitting issues. I’m short so I don’t know if it’s a short waist or that my hips are too big or is it a sway back. I guess the thing is, is to keep going and once you know what your fitting issues are it’ll be much simpler with future patterns….I hope :)

Reply

Bel April 22, 2012 at 12:22 pm

Can I suggest that you put two darts at the back of your blouse if you sew this in future. I have the same issues with fitting ad a sway back adjustment was just NOT sufficient for the amount of fabric I needed to have removed- I learned that through a hideous looking toile I adjusted. My top turned out great with the two vertical darts. Hope that helps!

Reply

Leave a Comment

Notify me of followup comments via e-mail. You can also subscribe without commenting.

Previous post:

Next post: